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FRAGRANCE


HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT FRAGRANCE FOR YOUR AGE

Citrus fragrances tend to be fresher and more immediate. With lemon, neroli and pink pepper, this is as punchy as ambassador Chris Evans’ superhero alter-ego. £46.50 for 50ml boots.com

Bleu de Chanel

Scents get richer and more complex as they get “older” – like you, hopefully. The eau de parfum version of this warm, spicy modern classic has even more depth. £57.50 for 50ml boots.com

Habit Rouge by Guerlain


This has been around since 1965 and spans the ages in both senses thanks to its versatile combination of youthful citrus with more grown-up spices and leather. £48 for 50ml debenhams.com

Tom Ford Oud Wood

Just like dark colours add gravitas, so wood and incense convey sophistication. It helps that this contains smoky oud – one of perfume’s priciest ingredients. £142 for 50ml harrods.com

Kilian Light My Fire

 

Tobacco is another note that suggests age. Redolent of power, influence and Monte Cristo cigars, this is more appropriate for a gentleman’s club than a night one. £175 for 50ml lessenteurs.com

HOW TO CHOOSE A FRAGRANCE

1. Shop in the morning

Start your search early. “Not only will your senses be more alert, the air in stores won’t be as heady,” says perfumer Roja Dove. The accumulated body odour of the day’s shopping scrums can curdle even the strongest scent.

2. Skin up

Don’t just spray and sniff. Sampling is essential. Your unique body chemistry affects the way a fragrance smells and behaves (it lasts longer on oilier skins, for example). Never assume a scent that smells great on someone else will suit you just as well. Especially if you’re dating them.

3. Reset your sense of smell

Smelling lots of different fragrances overloads your nasal receptors. Reset them between whiffs with something neutral. Fragrance Designer Azzi Glasser suggests sniffing the inside of your arm. Not the bit you’ve been spraying fragrance on.

4. Give it time

Most fragrances are constructed in three separate layers – with a top, middle and base. Base notes often take an hour or more to become apparent on the skin, so it’s important not to rush into a fragrance purchase based on what you smell initially. Once you’ve made a shortlist, spray each scent on your skin and see how you like them a couple hours on.

5. Sample online deals

Some stores, such as Debenhams, offer a ‘Try A New Fragrance Guarantee’ option for guys shopping on their website. After purchase, you receive a sample of the fragrance along with the full size bottle. If it doesn’t float your olfactory boat, simply return the unopened full bottle to a store or online for 28 days and get your money back. Handy.

WHAT IS BERGAMOT?

The fragrance world has never been given to informality: adverts often sound as if they’ve been scripted by Byron and their descriptions can require a dictionary to decode. But learn to speak their language and you’ll be less likely to walk out of Duty Free smelling like a bordello doorman. In this case, bergamot is a small yellowy-green fruit that gives your fragrances – and Earl Grey tea – their citrus note. "It’s used in scores of scents to add freshness," says James Craven of independent perfumery Les Senteurs. That’s because bergamot is more ‘rounded’ (translated, less bitter) than lemon and grapefruit, while not as tangy as orange. So if you favour a spritely aroma but don’t want to smell like a teenager, check for bergamot on the label. It’s like comparing cheap plonk with something richer. Oh, and on that note, bergamot is pronounced with a hard ‘T’ – like Moet.

Acqua Di Parma – Blu Mediterraneo “The finest bergamot comes from Calabria in Italy,”says Craven. Which is where the oil for this fresh but spicy cologne originates. £52 for 75ml

Ermenegildo Zegna – – Italian Bergamot This summer scent isn’t just fresh and zingy: it’s warm and herbaceous too, ideal for work and play. £145 for 125ml

Maison Francis Kurkdjian – - Aqua Universalis “Bergamot is present in the full composition, not just the top note,” says Craven. If that’s your cup of Earl Grey. £110 for 70ml

LINKS OF LONDON: FOR THE MODERN MAN

Deciphering fragrance parlance is easier said than done. Wading through references to myriad notes and fougere can leave your head swimming and have you reaching for the wrong kind of bottle. However, with the expertise of WIll Andrews (what’s his title?), MH has identified the only four words you need to remember and finally make sense of scents. Forget talk of Bergamot or sorting your vetiver from your vanilla, deploy these terms in any fragrance shop and you’ll find your new favourite scent in no time.

Citrus

What does it mean: Made from notes of fresh fruit. Expect these to feel and smell fresher, lighter and cleaner. This family has become increasingly popular with the rise of sports fragrances.
When to use it: This aura of clean is perfect post-gym, helping to reinvigorate you after a hard session. Pack a bottle in your gym bag and carry with you at all times.
Buy it: Boss Bottled Unlimited

Aromatic

What does it mean: This family is created from Mediterranean herbs. Whilst still fresh and energising they also feel more masculine.
When to use it: This should be your go-to office fragrance. It’s a serious scent and the masculine edge is a perfect partner to your power suit. Keep one in your top drawer to reapply after lunch.
Buy it: Lacoste Blue

Woody

What does it mean: Made from sandal and cedarwood, just like cigar boxes, these fragrances have a more old-school manly feel. They’re deeper, smoother and more soulful.
When to use it: Once the initial smell subsides and you’re left with the woody dry down, these scents last much longer and are great for all day use. Keep this one in your bathroom and spray at the weekend before a day out with mates.
Buy it: Boss Bottled Night

Oriental

What does it mean: The warmest collection of fragrances made from edible notes like vanilla and chocolate. They smell rich, sweet and are guaranteed crowd pleasers.
When to use it: This family is the most seasonal and work best in winter, but suit evenings just as well. Plus, they also last the longest and are therefore perfect for a night out. Spritz just before you leave for the restaurant and come home smelling just as good.
Buy it: James Bond Seven

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