Adam Brady from London Barbershop, Ruffians, and resident MH grooming guru reviews the latest mops to make their way out of this year’s LC:M. Not only that, but he also explains how to get the style you like the look of and whether your can pull it off.
The side parting has always been a commercially viable option for men’s hair as it is easy enough to achieve with any hair type, product and face shape. However, usually it’s seen on men’s catwalks in tailoring looks, styled with a wet look pomade which keeps the finish sharp and austere. This season, however, we saw the side parting as a focal point for most looks, both casual and formal. It was seen either pushed forward over the face in a falling fringe, or swept back with a softer, more textured finish (unlike the sleek looks we’re used to).
Commercial Interpretation: A fringe veering to the side, or a simple swept back side parting – but use your fingers rather than a comb for a more on-trend finish.
How to style: Find out where your natural side parting sits and separate the side section with a comb. For the fringe, apply a salt spray or paste to damp hair and blow-dry forward, using your fingers to shape the look and add texture. For a swept back look, apply a small amount of water-based pomade to damp hair, and comb back, diagonally, to achieve the shape you want. Run through your fingers for a more up to date, textured look.
Who it suits: Side-partings are really adaptable and can be used to emphasise good features or conceal worse ones. If you have temporal recession, the side fringe may help to conceal one side of the thinning spot – however, this may accentuate the other side’s recession so be aware of finding a good balance. A sweep back side parting, depending on its height, can help to square off your face and accentuate your bone structure. If you’ve got a long face, style your sweep back lower; if you’ve got a round face, make it higher – all this in order to make it better proportioned.
Fringes have always been a popular look at LC:M and this season was no different. There were a couple of notable sorts of fringe – a choppy, wearable look, and a more designed style, which saw longer fringes cascading down the forehead, textured.
Commercial Interpretation: While we saw plenty of experimental, flowing, cascading fringes (Craig Green, Pringle) there were wearable options on the catwalks, seen in the Christopher Kane and E. Tautz walks, notably. These fringes were choppy, casual, and set on a simple short back and sides haircut. The cropped look takes into account the texture we are seeing elsewhere at LC:M.
How to style: Apply a clay to dry hair, and work in from the roots. Vigorously rub into the fringe and bring down over the forehead. If you’ve got longer hair, a paste will work better.
Who it suits: This sort of cropped fringe is good for those who have finer hair – the clay will coat the hair, giving it the appearance of more thickness. It’s good for those with a high forehead as bringing some hair down will shorten it and make the face look better proportioned.
The Natural Look
It still reigns this season. Most haircuts would have been scissor cut, with a complete departure from clipper work.
Commercial Interpretation: The easiest on this list that can be replicated in a barber shop or at home. The haircut is a simple short back and sides, with length and texture left on top. This should be fully scissored (so no clipper) work, and point cut with scissors on the top section (vertical cutting) to increase texture.
How to style: For a strong hold with glossy finish, apply a paste at the roots of dry hair, and use your fingers, sweeping back and upwards to create a tousled style. For a dry finish, sprinkle a texturizing dust into the roots of your hair and scrape through with your fingers. For increased texture, spray in a sea salt spray to damp hair and work through with your fingers.
Who it suits: The best thing about this cut is that it is simple and easy to style and maintain. It works best for those with a slight wave to their hair, and can be adapted to suit most face shapes.
A popular choice this season, and stylists are adding a bit more diversity to what has previously been slick back wet looks. Joseph and J.W. Andersen have created wearable wet-look styles, which don’t look sharp and austere.
Commercial Interpretation: A casual, rather than formal, wet look. Swept back off the face and styled with hands, rather than a comb.
How to style: Apply a water-based pomade to wet hair and tousle in with fingers.
Who it suits: This is a finish rather than a cut, so it can work with anything as long as the cut is good! Just make sure you don’t have thinning hair, as this could make it particularly visible.
Was embraced this season, with a more varied manipulation of afro styles than the usual buzzcut. High-tops were present, the square silhouettes evocative of 90s hip-hop culture, as well as more rounded 70s styles.
Commercial Interpretation: a high top is a taller version than a flat top – so if you don’t want to go too extreme, then you could just ask for it to be a bit shorter.
How to style: wash your hair once a week, with Ruffians Anti-Dandruff Shampoo & Conditioner. This contains Manuka honey, which is really good for the scalp and tea tree extract which helps to cleanse and bite through grease. Towel dry the hair as much as possible, but not vigorously – be gentle, so as not to rip out/knot any hairs. Use a wide tooth afro comb and place back into the shape that the barber cut it. It may require snipping some stray hairs. Add some hairspray to keep set in place.
Who it suits: it’s an eccentric look, so if you have the confidence to pull it off, then go for it. This can work with a tight and a loose curl, but if you’ve got the latter, then make sure you add more spray.